Cinema is a visual art. A huge team of specialists from various fields, including designers, fashion historians, are working on the creation of each film. Sometimes it is their work that becomes a real cultural heritage: you can not remember the name of the film, never see it and do not know the plot, but "that very flying white dress" Marilyn Monroe wore everyone certainly saw and knows.

Therefore, for me personally, one of the most interesting nominations of the Oscar award is always "best costume design". And if the battle for the best image of the red carpet takes place directly in the evening of the celebration, the struggle for a Golden statuette in this category takes place long before that.

I suggest having a closer look at the nominee films and the winner of 2019 .

The Favourite

The beginning of 18 century. England is at war with France. However, life in the Kingdom continues. The throne is occupied by an ill Queen Anna (Olivia Colman), and the country is actually led by her close friend lady Sarah Marlborough (Rachel Weisz). When a girl named Abigail (Emma Stone) appeared in the palace, a relative of lady Sarah, who sends her to work in the kitchen. But soon the new girl successfully finds a cure for a sick Queen, then Sarah decides to make her a maid. For Abigail, this is a chance to get back to her aristocratic roots, and it's best not to get in her way.

Sandy Powell, a costume designer, chose the bold course: we have introduced a dress of 1700 in monochrome, black and white. Despite the fact that this is contrary to historical accuracy (the English aristocracy at that time preferred bright colors and an abundance of decor), dark colors do not allow the heroines to get lost against the background of authentically overloaded interiors.

The lack of color is compensated by a variety of textures: fur, leather and real lace from it, stitch, layering - there is something to look at.

Of special interest are male suits: what are powdered wigs, and flies on the cheeks! It is noteworthy that the only color suit in the whole film — bright red uniform of Samuel Mashem, "love interest" of Emma Stone`s character.

Mary Queen of Scots

Ruthless Elizabeth I (Margot Robbie) and daring Mary Stuart (Saoirse Ronan) competed in politics and love. How is it that in a time of absolute male power, two women are fighting for the English throne?

As in "Favorite", costume designer Alexandra Byrne chose minimalism, especially in the outfits of Mary Stuart. The dark tones of the dresses are designed to emphasize the severity of Scotland and the militant mood of the young persecutor of the throne.

However, the fashion of the mid 16 century was dictated to the nobility not just colorful outfits: dresses of the aristocracy were made of the best fabrics and literally hang round with jewels — pearl on every free piece of cloth. This especially catches your eye in the looks of Elizabeth I, who also chose earthy shades and only a semblance of luxurious decor of the era.

The Ballad of Buster Scruggs

Events unfold in the Wild West in small provincial towns among the vast American prairies and high plains. In this harsh world, where everyone is for themselves, there is one law: the strongest survives.

In fact, Mary Zophres, a costume designer, had a task to reproduce the outfits of ordinary American people of the mid 19 century. Since the vast majority of the film's characters are men of low social status, there is little diversity in the looks. But they are reproduced accurately enough.

Mary Poppins Returns

The film tells about the new adventures of Mary (Emily Blunt) and her friend Jack (Lin-Manuel Miranda), who will meet with representatives of the next generation of the Banks family.

Characters familiar from childhood are transferred to the 1940s: elegant costumes, hats... Beauty! The magic of Mary Poppins' looks is emphasized by rich shades and a combination of various prints — from Polka dot to houndstooth. Fantasy by Sandy Powell, the dedicated costume designer, had a place to come out: the "cartoon" and "Broadway" options are indeed staggering.

- Winner in the category "best costume design" –

Black Panther

At first glance, you can decide that Wakanda is just a usual territory of wild Africa, but it is not. Here, in the depths of desert lands, hide deposits of unique metal that can absorb vibration. Many tried to get to them, ruining everything on their way and bringing death to the natives, but each time the mysterious spirit of Savannah — the Black Panther — stood up for the oppressed.

Many years later, trouble comes back to Wakanda, and this time the enemy enlisted the support of modern technology. When the chance is almost gone, T'Challa, the young Prince of Wakanda (Chadwick Boseman), learns that it is he who will revive the legend and continue the eternal struggle, wearing the mask of Black Panther.

At first glance, a frivolous superhero blockbuster presented more than a serious work of designers. The team headed by Ruth E. Carter managed to create a kaleidoscope of images where the outfits of fictional tribes absorbed the elements of really existing cultures. Adincra pictograms, woolen blankets of the Kingdom of Lesotho, Ethiopian crosses, free Nigerian tunics of agbad, even plates for the lower lip like the Mursi tribe! You get amazed by the scale of work carried out and how delicately traditions were woven into the modern canvas of box office cinema.

In my opinion, Ruth E. Carter deserved an Oscar. Congratulations to the winner!