Today I present a tutorial on creating a bouquet of realistic roses. Let`s agree that rose petals surface is rarely solid. As a rule, there are different transitions of colors, due to which each rose flower is beautiful and unique. Today I will show the technique of modeling roses, which differ in color inside and outside. This technique is not new, and yet few artists use it. So, let's start.

You will need:

• baked polymer clay of white, black, beige and green colors, liquid polymer clay;
• sculpting tools: acrylic rolling pin or paste machine, model knife, blanks of different sizes for the formation of petals and leaves, stack with ball, silicone mold with leaf texture, silicone mold bow (optional);
• wire;
• clasp for a brooch;
• assembly tools: pliers, round pliers;
• tape;
• brown acrylic paint;
• brush;
• superglue;
• acrylic lacquer.

Firstly, prepare polymer clay for work.

Wedge beige polymer clay until it is soft and pliable. Divide it into two uneven pieces. In a smaller piece add white polymer clay, to get a lighter shade of beige. Mix green clay with a small amount of black, mix thoroughly to get a beautiful dark green color.

Put aside green clay, and both beige pieces are rolled individually by a jump rope in layers of around 1-2 mm wide.

Impose one layer on another and once again roll them together to 1-2 mm wide.

Cut the leftouts. Place the rolled-out layer with the dark side up, light down, then when working, the dark color will go to the light and the rose will look more realistic.

With a round cater, cut circles for petals. I immediately arrange them in the order in which I will then collect them.

For a large rose we need 14 small circles and 5-6 bigger circles.

Now I take each circle, put it on the palm of my hand and stack with the ball begin to roll slightly from the center of the circle to the edge, thus thinning it, and in the center of the circle stack with the ball do a few circular movements for the petal to have a concave shape.

Thus, I process each petal and stack them in the same sequence in which they lay with me before. Inside the petals I got a darker color, and outside a lighter.

Prepare 9 pieces of wire 5-6 cm long, pliers or round teeth form a loop at the end of each wire, you will need 3 pieces of wire for the rose and two buds, and 6 for leaves.

From beige clay roll three small balls, slightly flatten them, giving the form of droplets. The wide side of the bit to attach them to the wires in the place where we did the loop. Put two pieces of wire aside, and begin to work with the third one.

Form the first row of roses. To do this, you need two leaves. Take the first petal and apply it to the drop of the second petal opposite the first tricladium and tightly pressed them to each other.

The next row will consist of three petals. Apply them in staggered order with respect to the petals of the first row. The last petal should be under the first. The rosebud on the top is supposed to be like a propeller.

The next number is generated according to the same principle of four petals. Since we have already given them a concave shape, they fall easily and quickly around the flower, which immediately turns into a beautiful rose. Do not forget that the last petal should be under the first.

Now stack five petals. Do not put them too tightly, the rose should be volume. Bend the edges of each petal slightly to the side, to give more realism to the flower.

The last row is formed by large leaves, have their looseness from the center, pressing more bottom to each other.

On large sheets I make two small cuts with scissors, I think that rose looks more realistic.

In the same way we need to make two more buds. The only difference is that we form only two rows of petals, so cut out 5 petals.

Now let's make sepals for the flowers. Roll out the dark green clay into a cane, cut it into small pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, a ball into a drop. For each flower we need 4-5 such drops.

I flatten every drop and slightly roll directly on the working surface of the stack (I use the handle of the model knife).

On each flattened piece with a model knife I make small notches.

Impose all sepals on buds and rose. It's simple.

Nearly ready. Now from dark green clay roll up three small balls to form a stalk, strung them on the bottom of each wire and tightly press to the buds.

Roses are ready.

Proceed to the formation of leaves. To do this, we need caters and silicone mold with the texture of rose leaves. Roll out the dark green clay in a thin layer, cut out the contours of the boat rose leaves and apply them to the silicone mold to give the desired texture.

To the middle of each leaf to make our harvested wires and tightly press them for the wire to be invisible from the outside. Insert each leaf into the sponge for dishes.

Bake. Time and temperature of baking is on the packaging of the polymer clay that you use. I bake for 30 minutes at 130 degrees. Remove from oven and cool.

Proceed to assembly. Take the blank of the leaves and twist them about three pieces, forming bouquets.

Form one large twig of leaves, twisting the wires as your imagination tells you.

In the same way form a bouquet of flowers and buds.

Apply both branches to each other, estimate how the flowers and leaves will be located in relation to each other. Bend the wires in the right direction. Below cut off the excess wire.

Now we need to arrange the stems. Since the clay does not adhere well to the wire, I decided to wrap the wire with tape first. Cut the tape lengthwise to make it thinner and easier to work with. Wrap it around the stems, grease with glue over the entire surface.

Now on top of the tape stick the stems of dark green polymer clay. Smooth it, bake a second time.

After complete cooling, continue the assembly process. To the rear surface of twigs with the leaves on the glue, glue the clasp to brooches. Then glue the two sticks to each other.

Beige clay is rolled in a very thin, long cane, wrap the bouquet with this cane, capturing the clasp at the back.

With the help of a silicone mold, I made a bow and attached it to the bouquet, pre-lubricated it with liquid plastic. Just for strength, I smear with liquid plastic all the gaps between the stems and the cane wound. I put it in the oven for the third baking.

Almost done, just a little bit left. I type a little brown acrylic paint on a dry brush and tint the leaves of the rose all over the surface. The leaves turn a light shade and look a lot more interesting. The finished product is coated with varnish for polymer clay, waiting for complete drying. The brooch is ready.

Such elements in the form of roses, buds and leaves can be arranged in a different way, add beads, collecting them completely different decoration, such as.

Or take other colors, more contrasting, such as burgundy and light pink, as I did in the next photo.

In any case, your roses will look very gentle and realistic.