Taxco is a "silver capital" of Mexico. While Europe admired Lalique and Faberge, the life of a small town went on as usual. Such isolation helped to preserve and develop the identity of jewellery.

What distinguishes Mexican jewellery?

Most popular stones in this jewellery are: onyx, amethyst, red Jasper. You may also come across obsidian, volcanic glass and jade.

A special place is occupied by turquoise. Ornaments with this stone were created by aborigines in 200 BC.

There are three main directions in jewellery genres:

Religion is an important aspect of Mexican life. From the time of the ancient Maya to the present day craftspeople use religious motifs in ornaments, emphasizing the presence of spirituality in their daily life.

Nature. Mexican jewellers get inspiration from nature like many others in the world. But in contrast to the works we know, Mexican ones have much more local birds, snakes, fish and animals.

Artistic movements, among which are surrealism and cubism. They are the result of so many unusual forms and bold decisions in design.

Spanish conquistadors and American architects

In the early 16 century, conquistadors came to the Mexican lands. They were led by rumors of silver and mineral deposits. These rumors were true, and the Royal mine was founded in the vicinity of Taxco, the main supplier of silver for the Spanish crown.

Despite the small number of natives, life in Taxco was rich even before the Spaniards` arrival. There lived a leader who collected tribute in the nearest district, and the locals mined stones for ritual and decorative products. After the arrival of Cortez, the town grew and acquired familiar features of a colonial city.

Spanish jewellers brought new techniques of working with metal — filigree, bas-relief and engraving. Also, the masters learned to inlay products with small faceted stones. This gave a new round of development of the craft — in the early products were mostly large carved minerals or cabochons.

Mexican jewellery of that time was influenced by Spanish. Most of the jewellery was exported, but it was not highly valued as it was difficult to compare with the level of European jewellers.

After the beginning of trade with Asia in 17 century, the value of silver products increased. The stamping of coins and the creation of ritual decorations — crosses, medallions and liturgical paraphernalia — were set to a large scale. Pearls, turtle shell and colored glass were brought from the East to Mexico. So, these materials were also used by local craftspeople.

In the early 19th century, the country experienced numerous revolutions and reforms did nothing good for the jewellery. Meanwhile, the reserves of mines were depleted and for almost a hundred years the “silver capital " lost its status.

A new era for Taxco began with the arrival of William Spratling, a young jeweller and professor of architecture.

William Spratling

In the 1930s, William Spratling came to Taxco with a plan to revive the city's jewelelry business. He set up a supply of silver from recently discovered mines nearby and opened a workshop — Taller de las Delicias.

Spratling's work dominated with traditional pre-Columbian American motifs that differed greatly from the European style. Ethnic elements, rich in images of animals and plants were transformed in combination with art deco forms.

Spratling chose courage and originality and did not loose. In America, where he exported silver, they were appreciated. The Second World War also influenced Mexican products. Europe ceased to be a supplier of luxury goods, so the Americans drew attention to the unusual products of Mexico. This boosted the development of the jewellery craft of Taxco.

Spratling insisted on high quality materials and technology to keep the competition.

For the revival and transformation of jewellery, William Spratling is called "the Father of Mexico's silver". But he is not the only great name among the Taxco jewellers of the 20th century.

Marks by the author: curly initials "WS", surname "Spratling" near a platemark.

A native Mexican jeweller who influenced the development of the industry greatly was Antonio Pineda. At the age of 14, he joined the apprentices at Taller de las Delicias belonged to Spratling. Antonio was a talented student, but the desire to create independently pushed him to open his own store.

In 1941, his works were exhibited in San Francisco along with George Jensen (Denmark) and Margaret de Patta (America). There he found a distributor who opened Pineda to the West coast.

Success helped the jeweller not only to develop his business, but also to help other craftspeople of his native Taxco. He supported the local museum and helped to organize the first "silver fair" — Ferias de la Plata.

The distinctive features of Antonio Pineda's jewellery are integrity and massiveness. Wide bracelets and necklaces have cabochons of moonstone, amethyst and onyx. But faceted minerals are rare.

Marks by the author: the initials "AR" in a circle", "jewels by Antonio" and the most common "Antonio, Taxco" with a crown.

Hector Aguilar.

Like Antonio Pineda, Hector Aguilar began in Taller de las Delicias and continued his career as an independent craftsman and entrepreneur.

From 1943 to 1950, Hector Aguilar worked with a famous American jewellery brand Coro. The company specialized in the creation of costume jewellery, but as an experiment opened another direction of silver jewellery.

Thanks to this cooperation, he invested in the opening of his own store Taller Borda. It sold silver products of the highest quality. It was not only jewelelry, but home decor.

Unlike most jewellers, Aguilar preferred 940, 980 and 990 silver sample to 925. The craftsman was inspired by architecture and Aztec culture. His jewellery has many images of animals and simple forms.

Author's markings: figured initials "HA", "Taller Borda", Coro jewellery marked "Made in Mexico".

Margo van Vouris.

Having married a Mexican jeweller Antonio Castillo, Margo van Voris, an American, moved to Taxco. Margo was not a jeweller — she was an artist whose sketches were sometimes used by her husband's workshop.

But Margo wanted to implement her ideas independently. After her divorce with Antonio Castillo, she opened her own business — Margo de Taxco.

Style of Margo van Voris is international — the influence of Eastern art, fairytale motifs and surrealism can be seen.

A distinctive feature of the works is bright enamel, which stood out from the background of more modernist and restrained in color embodiment of Mexican jewellery.