In this master class I will explain in detail how and what I use when creating "imitation of filigree enamel" and "imitation of metal". Three-dimensional elements can be different (filigrees, chipboards, cast lace, castings from molds), but the principle is the same.

1. To start pick a decoupage layout of the right color and a pattern for the lid. I have imitation of bronze and green and brown enamel. You can take a layout with a finished border, I will cut a strip from the background map.

2. Make markings on the sides with paper tape. I will have 3 parts with decoupage layout and 3 parts with imitation of metal between them. When the parts with a layout are larger than "metal" inserts, it looks better.

3. Prime the sides of the box with acrylic primer or white paint. After drying, polish them with fine sandpaper to smoothness. Cut three pieces of equal length and glue aligning them bottom, using glue or lacquer. I cut the layout 2 mm higher than the height of the sides. After drying, the excess paper should be removed with sandpaper. At this stage coat the sides with glossy lacquer in several layers. This will protect them in the future.

4. Paint brown the areas between the motifs and the lower ledges. This can be done in several stages, applying the paint in thin layers with a brush with a slanted tip. If the paint gets on the motif, you can remove it with a wet cloth or a cotton pad. The paint is easily removed from the lacquered surface.

5. The bottom of the box and the inside of the lid have traces of lathing. We will not fight them, just close them with texture. Apply wood putty to the clean wood, you don't even have to sandpaper it. The putty will adhere to the wood. It is convenient to apply putty with a brush with short bristles in a vertical direction. If the putty is thick, you can dilute it with water to the condition of thick cream. Apply putty only to the central part of the lid, leaving the side that will go into the box.

6. After drying sand the putty with medium-grained sandpaper to remove the sharp peaks left by the brush. Glue plastic rhinestones on the bottom, they will be the feet. You can use any glue suitable for these surfaces.

7. Prime the rhinestones with acrylic primer. The putty can also be primed, this will reduce paint consumption. If the box will be intensively used and subjected to mechanical stress, you can take a special primer for plastic.

8. After drying, paint the bottom and the inner side of the lid with brown paint. The rim of the lid, which goes in the box is painted without priming. We do not need extra layers in this place.

9. Degrease all filigrees with alcohol or acetone, and prime them with a primer for metal, but it is possible to use a normal acrylic primer. To close the joint between the motif and the colored area, I use a plastic trim. It is also degreased and primed.

10. Proceed to decorating the top of the lid. I will use a method of implanting of a laser printout. Prime the lid, sand it and lacquer until it gets smooth. Sand the last layer of lacquer after drying with very fine-grained sandpaper. You need to remove the gloss finish from the last layer. Smear the front side of the print with lacquer, cover the lid with lacquer and apply the printout to the second layer of lacquer. All surfaces must be well coated with lacquer, but without excesses. Place the printout face down on the lid, put a clear pocket on top and smoothen the paper with a spatula, expelling excess lacquer and air. Gently remove the excess lacquer with a cloth from the center to the edges. Lacquer should not drop on the paper. Dry the lid for at least 4 hours, it is better to leave it for 12 hours. If there is no laser printout, you can draw a pattern with a ruler and a compass or transfer it through carbon paper. The marking can be whatever you like, later we are going to paint the entire surface with brown paint.

11. After drying, the paper layer is wetted with water and rolled off with fingers. You can use a soft piece of foam and fine-grained sandpaper. The surface must be free of fibres, and the image must be clear. Cover the entire surface with lacquer, preparing it for contour painting.

12. Put a filigree in the center of the lid and draw out its contour. Paint the entire surface under the filigree, trying not to go over the lines.

13. Next, fasten all primed filigrees in place. If the thickness of the walls allows, they can be fastened with nails, use glue otherwise.

14. Draw with a contour all the lines of marking on the lid. It is better to take contour paste or relief paint, they collapse less while drying. If at first you don't succeed in making high lines, after drying you can put the second layer on the first contour. The contour should be high and have no gaps. Subsequently, we will fill the cells with enamel paints. You can add some liquid pearls of any color.

15. After complete drying of the contour paint brown the entire surface of the lid and filigrees. You can do this with a bristly brush and a sponge. Try to avoid traces of a brush, they can ruin the final result.

16. Cover with bronze paint all areas painted brown, using a "dry brush" technique. Put some bronze paint on a bristly brush, wipe it on a sheet of paper, leaving a very thin layer on the brush, and gently, barely touching the surface, go through all parts in different directions. The brush leaves paint only on the convex parts of texture, thereby giving volume to all parts. To enhance the luster you can apply a thin layer of metallic wax. Put a small amount of wax on your finger and go through all the protruding elements.

17. A plastic trim is painted in the same way, cut it into pieces and glue it on the joints of the motif and imitation of metal inserts.

18. Before pouring enamel, it is necessary to fix the wax coating and create a non-absorbent substrate. This can be done by a brush or a sponge, but the easiest way is to cover the entire surface with any aerosol solvent-based lacquer.

19. The last step is to fill enamel paint. All these paints are on solvent basis. You can use opaque stained glass paints.