Personal mannequin is a surprisingly useful thing!

So, what you need to make a personal mannequin:

Body:

1. Brown sticky tape — 6-9 bobbins depending on the size of the "source" — the person who serves the template
2. Trash bag — 30-60 liters depending on the size
3. Alabaster — 2-4 kg
4. Gauze — 1.5 m
5. Polyurethane foam — best Makroflex (3 bottles for XS size). When using the gun, the process will be much easier and faster
6. Thin polyester batting — I needed 1 m
7. Supplex — the tightest — 1.5 m for size XS
8. Foam-rubber for pillow in the neck — the one from high boots would be good
9. Medical gloves — 10-15 pairs (sold at chemist's) to protect your hands

Stand — buy or:

1. Tubes, system Joker 2 pcs. per 2 m (OBI, Leroy Merlin)
2. Vertical connecting elements — 2 pc
3. Connecting elements for T-joints — 2 pcs
4. Element for attachment to the base — 2 pcs
5. Waferboard — 1pc
6. Furniture wheels — 3 pc
7. Leg with fixing height — 1 pc
8. Screws for wheels and legs — 8 pcs

Tools: hacksaw, screwdriver, hexagons, sandpaper.

Skilled assistant and the desire to create!

So it begins!

The one who serves as a template must stay in the underwear.

Make a hole for head and hands in a garbage bag and to put on the model. If the mannequin will be with pant, the bag needs to be connect with the tape between the legs.

Next be careful to form the frame.

Cut the tape into strips of 15-25 cm and stick aslant. Special attention is paid to breast and buttocks. Advice: make the neck and hands in the last turn.

The frame should consist of 5-6 layers of the tape.

Then you need to level it. Set a marker or pen to the place where the end of the body will be and ask the model to slowly turn around to draw the line.

Then draw a vertical line down the center of the back with a ruler — it will be a cutting line. And leave a few horizontal lines on the vertical lines for further matching.

Carefully cut the frame, remove it from the model, join the horizontal marks, fix it with the tape. Cut the bottom along the line.

Now you need to fix the gauze on the mannequin (wrapping it with thread) and apply 2-3 coats of alabaster (diluted so that it was like sour cream). The frame must not crack during the extension of foam inside.

Once the frame is dry, pour the foam. This is done in some stages during several days so that there were no emptiness.

Pour foam in the horizontal position of the mannequin through its bottom. First, the walls of the upper part of the mannequin are filled — start with the back, then the chest and the back again. Contunue so until it is full. Then the middle part is filled.

Each layer should be allowed to dry for 5-7 hours.

When a half of the mannequin is filled, fix the fastener.

Cut the Joker tubes into pieces. The size of the tubes varies depending on the model height, in my case, it was 70 cm for the lower part (legs) — 2 pieces, 60 cm — inside dummy, 2 pcs for steadiness, 7 cm — for fixing the distance between the legs.

For the perfect cut, the tubing in the region of the cut need to wrap the paper tape in 3-4 layers, then the cutter does not slip, and the cut turns out perfect (tube cut very easily).

Fix the inner tubes with the short pipe (7cm) and T-shaped connecting elements. In my case the distance between the legs was 16 cm.

Now insert the tubes into the mannequin (if the mannequin woulld be with trousers, the connecting element is fixed inside it) and begin to slowly fix it all with the foam. Tubes easily cut the foam and deepen in it. The tubes should reach the armpits or shoulders. After the inner part of the tubes is sufficiently deepened, continue to fill the lower part with foam.

Allow it to dry, and come to the the base assemble.

Measure the desired distance and fix the fasteners for the legs on the base.

Then fix the wheels and one leg (the leg does not allow to roll and makes it steady on an uneven surface as it changes its height).

After the foam dries, break the plaster layer and remove the tape frame.

Sandpaper the "carcass" to get a more smooth surface.

Small cracks can be repaired with papier-mache, but I prefer the foam with a little prefecting after drying (because it's difficult to stick a needle into papier-maché).

Then wrap the "carcass" with polyester batting and sew a close-fitting cover of supplex. In this case, the cover without tucks. Put two layers of batting in the neck — shape a pin cushion to secure the mannequin from constant deforming with pins.

The batting, if necessary, is fixed with small stitches (needle and thread). The amount of batting should fill up the volume removed when smoothing the surface with sandpaper.

Tight with supplex.

Attach the legs to the "carcass" with connecting elements (they will allow to put on trousers).

The mannequin is ready!

Some additional tips: the foam is easily wiped with nail polish remover, after using foam; clean the tooter of the spray immediately after using it otherwise the foam will dry and spoil the tooter.